The designer called his collection “Standard,” so the Standard-branded T-shirts were crudely cut into the kind of barely-there gym tops bodybuilders wear.
On the other side, a hoodie was extended into a flared monastic dress, a silhouette echoed in a series of wool and faux fur coats with face-framing collars and futuristic vibes. A white double-face cashmere coat with an integrated scarf collar evokes the understated luxury that Demna usually rebels against.
Men’s wool coats with peaked lapels and hoods seem more on-brand. Quarter-zip sweaters are worn inside out, giving another striking face-framing effect and echoing the zipped neckline that the house’s founder Cristóbal Balenciaga created for Bunny Mellon.
That wasn’t the case last January, however, when French culture minister Rachida Dati decorated the artistic director with the title of Chevalier de l’Ordre des Arts et des Lettres, pinning the green medal to his artfully faded black T-shirt. “I wanted, for the first time in the history of this beautiful country, for the Legion of Honor to be placed on a T-shirt. And it was my idea,” he said, admitting that “it actually pierced me a little.”
FM
